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Re-exammines the world's first ascent of an 8000-meter peak by Maurice Herzog, and discovers what was originally hailed as a dramatic tale of courage, survival, and teamwork, was actually a much darker, more ambiguous journey.

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Book ID Asin: 0684867575
Book Title: True Summit: What Really Happened on the Legendary Ascent of Annapurna
Book Author: David Roberts
Book Format and Price:
Book Format Name: Kindle
Book Format Price: $11.99
Book Format Name: Hardcover
Book Format Price: $25.29
Book Format Name: Paperback
Book Format Price: $15.99
Book Price: $25.29
Book Category: Books, Travel, Asia and unknown
Book Rating: 78 ratings

True Summit: What Really Happened on the Legendary Ascent of Annapurna by David Roberts Book Review

Name: W. Jones
Rating: 5.0 out of 5 stars
Title: Where Annapurna ends, True Summit begins.
Date: Reviewed in the United States on September 19, 2016
Review: I had read 'Annapurna' by Maurice Herzog a couple of weeks earlier, and, as I imagine many decades worth of armchair adventurers have been, was both mesmerized and perplexed. Annapurna was like mountaineering through a dreamy, vaseline-coated lens, focused on Herzog. The centerpiece of my umbrage seemed to be the summit picture of Herzog holding the French flag. There were other detractors as well - the summit euphoria accompanied by the passing mention of pills, the self-imposed idolatry of the dialogue between Herzog and anyone, and the prolific usage of 'I' instead of 'we'. Lots of unanswered questions remained after putting down the book, not the least of which was the epitaph, 'There are other Annapurnas in the lives of men." Overcoming loss of digits is a direct implication, but perhaps there was some other mountain to struggle against - guilt? shame? forever being trapped by a self-imposed facade?

As these thoughts and doubts danced in the periphery of my reflection, I turned to the internet to learn more about what happened to Herzog and others after the climb. I found that I was not alone in my discontentment, and eventually came across 'True Summit'. David Roberts' investigation into the people and events surrounding Annapurna lifted the veil of uncertainty cast by Herzog. Through exclusive interviews and both public and private documents, Roberts brings to life those cast aside by Herzog through the non-publication agreement and his own subsequent self aggrandizement. The climbing resume of the other climbers (Louis Lachenal, Lionel Terray, Gaston Rébuffat, Marcel Ichac, Jean Couzy, Marcel Schatz, Jacques Oudot, Francis de Noyelle) brought to light their talent and passion for the mountains, and was beautifully and seamlessly conveyed. The story of the 1950 climb was dispersed throughout the story of the pre- and post-climb biographies of the climbers. At times I worried that my questions would not be answered, but I was not disappointed in the conclusion. I especially enjoyed the excerpts of the interviews with Francoise Rébuffat, and Lise Lachenal, who's love and deserved pride allow for a genuine account of the burdens borne by the sidelined heros of France.

I will say that True Summit should be read after Annapurna by Maruice Herzog. It is not a stand-alone account of the climb, and the purpose of the book is to shed light on the shadowy corners of Herzog's account, and to celebrate the accomplishments of the eight other climbers who risked their lives to bring glory home to France. Ultimately, this is where True Summit shines - the questions and unease which leads the inquisitive reader to True Summit fall away as the mountain becomes merely a framework surrounding the portraits of the courageous climbers who, upon claiming her summit, carried her with them throughout the remainder of their lives. There are few mountaineers in the lives of great mountains. This is the story of nine.

Name: Rick Spell
Rating: 4.0 out of 5 stars
Title: Detailed but Interesting
Date: Reviewed in the United States on April 19, 2006
Review: I have read other David Roberts' climbing books and generally enjoy them greatly. He writes in a very detailed intelligent style with entertainment a secondary consideration. More of a college analytic paper than a novel which is appropriate.

This book takes that to a higher degree as he re-examines the famous 1950 climb of Annapurna. In that climb the expedition leader and a professional climber summit at a very high cost. One of the most famous books in mountaineering was written by the leader Herzog who goes to great fame and wealth from this climb. This book examines whether the book is 100% accurate or slanted. A great bit of time is spent in extreme detail discussing different wordings and accounts of the climb. This somewhat bogs down the story but to true climbers with a historical interest it will be very appealing. For me, it was a bit much.

But the final third of the book where conclusions are drawn and stories from the other climbers offer perspective really make this book worth the read. This book clearly demonstrates the courage and commitment of those involved and readers will definitely come away inspired by the story of the climb. As to me, I will not be drawn into the debate of what really happened. It is possible that different people can look at the same facts in a different way and I found more of that than any conspiracy. A topical but detailed climbing book so be prepared to not breeze through the book like a novel.

Name: VSteele
Rating: 2.0 out of 5 stars
Title: What Controversy?
Date: Reviewed in the United States on January 7, 2022
Review: I too read this book right after Herzog's because I saw it just before I read Herzog's and thought another perspective would be useful. I found, however, that the author started the book with an agenda and created issues where none really existed. Every one of the four main climbers agreed on 99% of the facts. Maurice admits what we all know - that the dialogue was fictional and recreated. The supposed differences, the what really happened, are nonsense. Using conversations and documents that occurred 40 years after the events themselves is of course going to create differences in the story since memories fade away. This is a highly respected writer - I hear - but his view are twisted by his love of his boyhood heros.

The only value of the book is that it discusses what happened to most of team afterward. That is a remarkable story. The bitterness of several of the climbers because all praise went to Herzog is understandable and normal. Who remembers the names of those who accompanied Scott and Peary and Amundsen? What happened in 1950 was a miracle of perseverance, bravery and impossible to fathom relentlessness. This book does nothing to tarnish the accomplishment nor the description of it in Herzog's book.