Do a restaurant’s good deeds absolve so-so food?


zamo2022/09/01 12:51
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Do a restaurant’s good deeds absolve so-so food?

“In recent years, a new kind of restaurant has emerged—one that attempts to combine destination-worthy cooking with a philanthropic calling,” writes John Kessler. “Jon Bon Jovi’s JBJ Soul Kitchen restaurants in New Jersey serve simple meals to paying customers and those in need. If someone can’t pay, they can trade their family’s meal for a work shift. Staplehouse in Atlanta … has been labeled the best new restaurant in America by Bon Appétit. All of its profits go to … a nonprofit foundation to help hospitality workers in need. No critic would subject JBJ Soul Kitchen to a review, while every ambitious critic in America jockeys for a table at Staplehouse. But … [a]t what point do you applaud the mission rather than critique the food?”


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