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*Winner of the 2016 Pulitzer Prize for Autobiography*

Included in President Obama’s 2016 Summer Reading List

“Without a doubt, the finest surf book I’ve ever read . . . ” —The New York Times Magazine

Barbarian Days is William Finnegan’s memoir of an obsession, a complex enchantment. Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it


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Book ID Asin: B00G3L6JMS
Book Title: Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life
Book Author: William Finnegan
Book Format and Price:
Book Format Name: Kindle
Book Format Price: $14.99
Book Format Name: Audiobook
Book Format Price: $0.00
Book Format Name: Hardcover
Book Format Price: $27.95
Book Format Name: Paperback
Book Format Price: $13.51
Book Format Name: AudioCD
Book Format Price: $14.99
Book Price: $6.85
Book Category: Kindle Store, Kindle eBooks, Travel and unknown
Book Rating: 3,814 ratings

Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life by William Finnegan Book Review

Name: Antonio DiMarco
Rating: 5.0 out of 5 stars
Title: Great book!
Date: Reviewed in the United States on October 16, 2022
Review: No wonder this won the Pulitzer Prize. Very entertaining of a read. If you are a surfing fan, you will beyond love this one!

Name: jonathon
Rating: 4.0 out of 5 stars
Title: Surfing memoir.
Date: Reviewed in the United States on September 19, 2022
Review: Awesome book. A powerful journey in search of waves, self identity, and the stoke.

Name: adel
Rating: 5.0 out of 5 stars
Title: The More Things Change, the More the Waves Stay the Same
Date: Reviewed in the United States on October 2, 2015
Review: A terrific book on waves written by a professional reporter, Barbarian Days smashes the stereotype of the inarticulate surfer. The watery descriptions are so vivid you can taste the salt, even when the going gets so tough, its hard to understand why the hell anything but a fish would be out in such major surf. While many tails about summiting mountains, distance swimming in open oceans or surfing waves "three refrigerators high" seem rather tall, Barbarian Days stays grounded in factual detail. The in-depth descriptions approach meditations on ocean currents, winds, reefs, surfing technique and surf board models, and yet fails to explain the question why. Certainly not the pursuit of glory, the author makes clear. Despite popular misconceptions, in the early days, the original surf culture downplayed heroics; boasts were bad form and showing off on a wave was as uncool as scoring points in a contest. In a sort of "right stuff" tone, Barbarian Days captures the authentic experience, without romance or glamour and portrays surfing as a cold, solitary test of courage. Though the author tells all, starting with his teenage addiction to waves, a mystery hangs over the book. Why freeze in stormy waters for eight hours, or summit peaks or struggle with a terminal disease against insurmountable odds? Is it human or superhuman to push the limits of tolerance when agony seems prevalent and ecstasy elusive? I once asked a three-time channel swimmer what kept him going in the cold dark ocean for 13 hours and he said "Beatle songs mostly, they just run though my head. I could almost hear the author humming in Barbarian Days, pretending the adventures are normal, though some accounts include an implicit "don't try this at home" caveat cause maybe it wasn't so smart to take such risks. In some instances, he confesses that he can't believe he came out alive. This is not a dull memoir.
The childhood sections were so touching I wished my teenage son would read the book. On the other hand, I am relieved that my son doesn't read because he is growing up in a very different world. Though the quest to discover unknown waves in remote corners of the globe took knocking about to extremes, in the 1960's -1980's, traveling around was a coming of age ritual. Sadly, in this day and age, the world is not nearly as safe and faced with school and career pressures most kids won't have the luxury of an extended time out. One theme of the book concerns change. The author returned some early haunts later in life to find a remote island transformed into a luxury resort, or a coastal fishing village overrun by tourists. Lives and places change. The author aged, married, became a war correspondent, but chasing big surf remained a constant. The interplay took on a rhythmic symmetry, the more things changed the more the waves stayed the same. Like climbers with their mountains, and swimmers with their channels, for surfers the waves serve as a measure, a proving grounds, a retreat, a source of friends and a challenge that never stops calling.

Name: cmdodd11
Rating: 5.0 out of 5 stars
Title: Great Book; Raises Questions
Date: Reviewed in the United States on December 18, 2020
Review: I took over a year to read this. Not because it was bad at all. I'm just not a great reader, and it feels like a book that you have the freedom to read at your own pace, largely because it covers many decades in the author's life. I read a few pages before bed every night. It is a calming book. It also raised some questions for me.

The author mentions writing to friends, including male friends. That seemed really nice. It also reminded me of how I don't really keep in touch with friends like that. We have overly romanticized actual letters in this era, and so texting, despite being more immediate, feels less in your face and less like a declaration. That seems sad. It was nice to read about that. Maybe he wouldn't have written if he were just a few states away instead of a world away. But back then when there was no internet and long-distance calling wasn't a fun expense, maybe so. This just made me think a lot about how our technology has changed our communication and our levels of intimacy and what we like. I was not alive in the 70s and barely the 80s, but it is strange to think how unimaginable it is currently.

The author also mentions how friends that he traveled with wanted to go see something else nearby, so he just stayed in that little town halfway across the world while he waited for them to return in a few days. It's clear that there's no internet at that time, obviously, and likely no New York Times. So he had to pass the time just by surfing by himself and talking with whatever locals or other travelers that he met in the moment. I can't imagine that. We need news and entertainment now all the time.

There were just a few little things like that that made me think.

This author's style seems very straightforward but not boring. I want to say like Hemingway, but I don't like Hemingway, so that's not at all helpful.

Name: Amazon Customer
Rating: 4.0 out of 5 stars
Title: A Great and Discouraging Read
Date: Reviewed in the United States on September 20, 2021
Review: I never had much interest in surfing until I hit my 40s, and even then it was only a sort of daydream about retirement: spend my declining years falling off a surfboard in paradise. I assumed that Bill Finnegan's autobiography would stoke (no pun intended) this interest to something approaching an obsession... I couldn't have been more wrong. Now I never want to go out on a surfboard. I know myself too well, and just about everything he describes -- the careful attention to the minutiae of the ocean and weather, going back in after countless close calls with serious injury and death, and especially the toll that age takes on even people whose physique and skill have been honed by a lifetime of surfing -- makes it clear that the sport is not a good fit for me to take up at my advanced age.

Still, a great autobiography, and a window into a world that I will never experience firsthand -- many of them, actually, befitting a globetrotting tale that begins with a somewhat two-fisted youth in LA and Hawaii, hippie wanderlust across Europe and Asia, a life-changing stay in apartheid South Africa, and much more. I would have been happy with a surf-themed bildungsroman, but Finnegan never settles for the expected resolution, never belabors a running theme, always moving on to another chapter in his life. His pereceptiveness and self-effacing openness lets him thoroughly live in every place he goes, geographically and inwardly, even if it's only for a few days or a few paragraphs before the next wave drives him onward.

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